Environmentor
03-04-2006, 11:08 PM
When I came to this thread, I promised I would share this information (as I have shared it at other forums). Anyway, this is the technique that I use to catch most of my big bluegills. I would also be interested to here some other angler's techniques on really big bluegill (half-pounders or better, at least appx. 10"). Also, realize that this technique catches large numbers and a great diversity of other fish. (I've caught bass, bluegill, channel catfish, bullhead, drum, dogfish, gar, carp, crappie, and a few others on this rig). It's a pretty simple rig. So, here are some steps and techniques I recommend, and if you already know bluegill then skip right to #6:
1. Being an environmentalist, the first tip is to keep the water as clean as possible. Both around your home and in the field. Remember that all the water that goes down your drain and flows off your property is going into the waterways, and is likely damaging your fishing hole, or someone elses. Bluegill live off of insects and plankton, and plankton can not survive in poor conditions. Destroy the basis of the food chain and you can kiss those big bluegill goodbye.
2. Now for the fishing. Big bluegill are less likely prayed upon, so the larger bluegill typically don't spend as much time hiding. They can often be found in open water. When they are not spawning they often hold deep, around 20 feet or so (in my opinion). Big bluegill sometimes spawn deeper too, if the water is clear. The lakes I typically fish are/were clear, and fish spawn in water around seven feet deep. They will spawn shallower in murky water, but they are deeper than those smaller bluegill. Since bluegill are schooling fish, ya catch one, then you can catch more. Since these bluegill feed on smaller food, they often are located close to plant growth. So remember to fish within a few hundred yards of plants (I like to cast right in/over plants), fish deep, and when you catch a large bluegill plant, stop their because there are more to be caught. Location is the key to big bluegill.
3. Bluegill eat almost anything, but I have the best luck fishing with a nightcrawler right on the bottom, usually I cast it out and let it sink slowly, the big bulls usually grab it on the fall. Big females usually follow it down and admire their meal before taking it, letting it lie there a few moments before grabbing it. However, this all varies because they don't want there bait to get away or another fish to take it. Use any kind of bait you want for bluegills. You can even use artificials. However, always use lighter tackle. Light line 2-6 pound gives the fish a fighting chance, and makes the day more entertaining. Once you use ultra light or light tackle you will never go back. Besides the enjoyment of the fights, you often get more and detect more bites with ultra light equipment.
4. Fish in reclusive spots for the big bluegill, especially those lakes with big predators. You never know when you will latch on to a big predator, and the bluegill typically are larger in these lakes. Reclusive ponds and lakes are also nicer because you don't have the boat traffic, the noise, and the competition. Farmponds also produce very large bluegill, and many farmers are willing to let you fish their pond as long as you are considerate of their property.
5. Unlike Bass and other fish it is good to take the larger bluegill for bluegill and crappie have a tendency to over populate and stunt if not kept in perfect balance. However, it is best to not always remove ALL the big gill when they are spawing for they produce the next generation of big bluegills. They hold those genes which allow bluegills to break the pound barrier.
6. Now for the rig which I promissed. An old angler/baitshop owner (some of the Quad-Citians may know him - Hutch from Hutch's Bait Shop in Buffalo) taught me and my dad some rig which we modified over time. First, you splitshot rig a live nightcrawlers hooking it once through the head (this is what Hutch told us, and it worked pretty good). However, many fish take this bait on the fall. However, over time we found that if you remove the split shot the worm sinks slower which is good for shallow fish or fish taking the bait on the fall (since it doesn't fall as fast). However, we then remodified the original rig (which we kept secret for about five years). We used icejigs! We use icejigs in the middle of the summer! Just tie on the icejig and hook a whole or half worm once so it rides straight. (Right through the head/front like your threading a plastic grub onto a jighead.) NO BOBBER, so you may need lighter line to cast it out farther. The combination of weight and color really gets the fish going. It falls slower than a splitshot rigged worm. Also, with the numerous styles of icejigs you can have little spinners, glow in the dark, flat, etc. which causes different variations. However, I have even found that sometimes the color doesn't matter and have used tiny/ultra-light leadhead un-painted jigheads in place. However, sometimes the color really helps attract attention. I have outfished alot of people with this simple rig. In some cases where I am using different nightcrawler rigs (worm/bobber, worm/splitshot, worm/no weight) the fish will only take the icejig rig. I don't know why, but it works. Also, realize that this rig catches alot of large fish, so I have since switched to icejigs with larger/heavier hooks. I have had many of the small-light-wire-aberdeen-panfish-hooks in many jigs straighten out on me from large fish. So you might want to switch up, but remember you want lightweight/heavy-hooked icejigs (which are harder to find). Also hooking the fish is real easy - just leave the line slack after casting and watch for the movement of the line. Most of the time, the fish will take it before it hits the bottom so be ready. So, I recommend you give this rig a try next time (remember that this is a warm water rig, for when the fish are active, but it works during summer-cold-fronts as well). I think you'll find it is worth it. And, shhhh its a secret.
Good Luck and Fish on!!!
Sorry about the size, this is mostly copied and pasted! I didn'r realize it was in such huge font!
1. Being an environmentalist, the first tip is to keep the water as clean as possible. Both around your home and in the field. Remember that all the water that goes down your drain and flows off your property is going into the waterways, and is likely damaging your fishing hole, or someone elses. Bluegill live off of insects and plankton, and plankton can not survive in poor conditions. Destroy the basis of the food chain and you can kiss those big bluegill goodbye.
2. Now for the fishing. Big bluegill are less likely prayed upon, so the larger bluegill typically don't spend as much time hiding. They can often be found in open water. When they are not spawning they often hold deep, around 20 feet or so (in my opinion). Big bluegill sometimes spawn deeper too, if the water is clear. The lakes I typically fish are/were clear, and fish spawn in water around seven feet deep. They will spawn shallower in murky water, but they are deeper than those smaller bluegill. Since bluegill are schooling fish, ya catch one, then you can catch more. Since these bluegill feed on smaller food, they often are located close to plant growth. So remember to fish within a few hundred yards of plants (I like to cast right in/over plants), fish deep, and when you catch a large bluegill plant, stop their because there are more to be caught. Location is the key to big bluegill.
3. Bluegill eat almost anything, but I have the best luck fishing with a nightcrawler right on the bottom, usually I cast it out and let it sink slowly, the big bulls usually grab it on the fall. Big females usually follow it down and admire their meal before taking it, letting it lie there a few moments before grabbing it. However, this all varies because they don't want there bait to get away or another fish to take it. Use any kind of bait you want for bluegills. You can even use artificials. However, always use lighter tackle. Light line 2-6 pound gives the fish a fighting chance, and makes the day more entertaining. Once you use ultra light or light tackle you will never go back. Besides the enjoyment of the fights, you often get more and detect more bites with ultra light equipment.
4. Fish in reclusive spots for the big bluegill, especially those lakes with big predators. You never know when you will latch on to a big predator, and the bluegill typically are larger in these lakes. Reclusive ponds and lakes are also nicer because you don't have the boat traffic, the noise, and the competition. Farmponds also produce very large bluegill, and many farmers are willing to let you fish their pond as long as you are considerate of their property.
5. Unlike Bass and other fish it is good to take the larger bluegill for bluegill and crappie have a tendency to over populate and stunt if not kept in perfect balance. However, it is best to not always remove ALL the big gill when they are spawing for they produce the next generation of big bluegills. They hold those genes which allow bluegills to break the pound barrier.
6. Now for the rig which I promissed. An old angler/baitshop owner (some of the Quad-Citians may know him - Hutch from Hutch's Bait Shop in Buffalo) taught me and my dad some rig which we modified over time. First, you splitshot rig a live nightcrawlers hooking it once through the head (this is what Hutch told us, and it worked pretty good). However, many fish take this bait on the fall. However, over time we found that if you remove the split shot the worm sinks slower which is good for shallow fish or fish taking the bait on the fall (since it doesn't fall as fast). However, we then remodified the original rig (which we kept secret for about five years). We used icejigs! We use icejigs in the middle of the summer! Just tie on the icejig and hook a whole or half worm once so it rides straight. (Right through the head/front like your threading a plastic grub onto a jighead.) NO BOBBER, so you may need lighter line to cast it out farther. The combination of weight and color really gets the fish going. It falls slower than a splitshot rigged worm. Also, with the numerous styles of icejigs you can have little spinners, glow in the dark, flat, etc. which causes different variations. However, I have even found that sometimes the color doesn't matter and have used tiny/ultra-light leadhead un-painted jigheads in place. However, sometimes the color really helps attract attention. I have outfished alot of people with this simple rig. In some cases where I am using different nightcrawler rigs (worm/bobber, worm/splitshot, worm/no weight) the fish will only take the icejig rig. I don't know why, but it works. Also, realize that this rig catches alot of large fish, so I have since switched to icejigs with larger/heavier hooks. I have had many of the small-light-wire-aberdeen-panfish-hooks in many jigs straighten out on me from large fish. So you might want to switch up, but remember you want lightweight/heavy-hooked icejigs (which are harder to find). Also hooking the fish is real easy - just leave the line slack after casting and watch for the movement of the line. Most of the time, the fish will take it before it hits the bottom so be ready. So, I recommend you give this rig a try next time (remember that this is a warm water rig, for when the fish are active, but it works during summer-cold-fronts as well). I think you'll find it is worth it. And, shhhh its a secret.
Good Luck and Fish on!!!
Sorry about the size, this is mostly copied and pasted! I didn'r realize it was in such huge font!