Sonny
06-11-2008, 03:44 AM
CHOOSING A SPINCASTING REEL
The choices facing you in selecting a spincasting reel are almost endless. There are pushbutton reels no longer than your thumb that handle 2 to 4-lb. test, right on up to heavy freshwater/light saltwater brutes almost as big as a baby's head that spit out and gobble up 20, 25 or even 30-lb. test. These days, there are models that handle braided line, models with ambidextrous handles, models with bait alarms (or "bait clickers"), models that even light up when you get a bite for night fishing. Choosing the right one for you is no easy task. It's not impossible, but it isn't like getting water to boil, either. You have some choices to make.
What
The first thing you have to decide is what you'll be using the reel for. If you'll be chasing primarily panfish, a microlight to medium-light reel would fit the bill. If you'll be pursuing line-wary fish, such as stream trout and salmon or smallmouth bass, then light lines have to be used, which automatically calls for long rods and light to medium-light spincasting reels. If you want to target beefier species like walleye, bass, and smaller catfish, a medium action reel will do the job. And if you want to target the big boys... the ones that seem to have shoulders, like striped bass, large catfish, or large northerns and muskies... then your reel better "have shoulders" as well.
How
The next thing to figure out is how you'll be using the reel. If you'll be doing a lot of deadsticking (stillfishing live bait when the rod will be unattended, such as when you're using a second rod to throw lures, etc.), you'll need a model that the antireverse can be shut off. It's also a plus (though not absolutely necessary) to have one with a bait clicker, an indicator light or some other type of signal that'll tell you that a fish is trying to pull your rig into the drink. If you intend to fish buzzbaits, spinnerbaits, or crankbaits, you'll want one with a fast retrieve. If you intend to fish Texas Rigs, Carolina Rigs, drop shotting rigs, surface plugs (like poppers or the venerable Arbogast Jitterbug), or trolling live bait set-ups like the Lindy Rig, you'll want one with a slower retrieve.
Features and Other Issues
There are other considerations. If you decide to fish for real streakers... like Chinook (king) salmon... that you just can't backreel against fast enough and have to depend on the reel's drag system, you may want to have a drivetrain drag. Most spincasters have drags that affect the sides of the spool. But some have drags that are located inside the drivetrain, just like a baitcaster. A lot of experienced anglers prefer drivetrain drags when hooking into these line peelers because the line doesn't twist when the reel is under drag. The spinnerhead, rather than the spool, rotates to pay out line under tension. Drivetrain drag spincasting reels, however, are not as versatile as standard spool drag models. Just like modern baitcasting reels, drivetrain drag pushbuttons don't allow the antireverse to be shut off, so these reels can't be used for deadsticking. Can't backreel with them, either, when bringing in fish that don't run like a Corvette but still take out drag.
Another thing to consider is how you want to retrieve. If you're left-handed, or if you're right-handed and simply prefer to keep the rod in your casting hand, you'll want a reel with an ambidextrous handle so you can switch the handle over to the other side of the reel.
Yet another consideration is the positioning of the reel. Standard spincasters ride on top of a casting rod, just like a baitcaster, and use a button to dispense line. But there are spincasting reels that hang below a spinning rod, and use a trigger-type line release. Many spincasting junkies like these reels for deadsticking, or prefer the smaller versions for microlight/ultralight usage because they balance like a spinning (or "bail") reel, and lighter-action rods do tend to be spinning rods. Some guys like the bigger trigger reels for flipping and pitching, again because of the balance issue.
Just One
You might say, "Sonny, I just want one rod and reel to do all my fishing." There are two ways to look at this:
1. Rod and reel combos are like golf clubs. You wouldn't even dream of attempting to play 18 holes with just a putter. There's also a place for woods, sand wedges, and other golf clubs (so I hear... I don't golf... golf is for people who can't fish... LOL). Rod and reel combos are the same way. You shouldn't chase after bluegills or stream trout with muskie equipment. You also shouldn't set your sights on flathead and blue catfish with your ultralight. There's a specific rod and reel combo for every type of fishing out there, and if we pack our rods like golf clubs, we can "play the whole course."
2. In our present economy, there are many of us who just plain can't afford an array of rods and reels to suit every situation. There are also those of us who are physically challenged, and are just incapable of toting 7,000 pounds of rods and reels (let alone all of the lures to use them with) wherever we go fishing. So, unlike golf, you can get by with just one or two rod and reel combos. It isn't the best way to fish, but it can be done. A medium-action composite (fiberglass/graphite) rod 5 1/2 to 7' long, with a medium-fast taper, a medium-action reel, and clear 12 lb.-test line will let you fish the widest variety of species. You can always use lighter leaders for smaller fish, or heavier leaders for the brutes, and adjust your drag accordingly. If you want my recommendation for a good, all-around rod that won't cost an arm and leg, you can't go wrong with a Shakespeare Ugly Stik. They're sensitive, yet tough as a bouncer in a heavy metal rock bar, and will probably outlast the reel you clamp to it.
The one rule to apply to any of these spincasting reel choices: get one of the better quality models. Just like with cars, electronics, kitchen appliances or anything else, you usually get what you pay for. You're not going to get Corvette performance from a Kia. Besides, why buy a Zebco 404 every other year when you can get a Zebco 33 and have it last ten, twenty, or more years? The more expensive reels are actually the real bargains in the long run. You don't have to buy top-shelf (there are pushbuttons that run up there), but buy at least the medium-priced reels, and stay out of the bargain basement. The modern Zebco 33 (or 33T trigger model) would do just fine: they're full-featured reels (ambidextrous, bait alarm, antireverse cut-out), hold 100 yards of 12 lb.-test, and will take a beating and still come out on top.
If money is tight, hit eBay and get an older reel in newer condition. That'd still be better than getting a cheap-o reel, then being let down by it and having to get another one. Used reels, I'd have to recommend the Zebco Legacy 1L... it's full featured (but not ambidextrous... just right-handed), and it's a champ. I've had one since '94 that's still going strong. The early '90s Zebco One Classic is another good choice. A good used trigger reel would be the Zebco Omega 154 or 164. Full-featured (except for no bait alarm) and tougher than Charles Bronson. And, of course, for light to medium duty, there's always the tried-and-true Shakespeare WondeReel 1800 or 1810. What great reels THOSE were! And eBay has them reasonably priced just about every day.
I hope I've helped a little. Whatever you choose, get the thing on a balanced rod and get out and use it!
Tight lines.
The choices facing you in selecting a spincasting reel are almost endless. There are pushbutton reels no longer than your thumb that handle 2 to 4-lb. test, right on up to heavy freshwater/light saltwater brutes almost as big as a baby's head that spit out and gobble up 20, 25 or even 30-lb. test. These days, there are models that handle braided line, models with ambidextrous handles, models with bait alarms (or "bait clickers"), models that even light up when you get a bite for night fishing. Choosing the right one for you is no easy task. It's not impossible, but it isn't like getting water to boil, either. You have some choices to make.
What
The first thing you have to decide is what you'll be using the reel for. If you'll be chasing primarily panfish, a microlight to medium-light reel would fit the bill. If you'll be pursuing line-wary fish, such as stream trout and salmon or smallmouth bass, then light lines have to be used, which automatically calls for long rods and light to medium-light spincasting reels. If you want to target beefier species like walleye, bass, and smaller catfish, a medium action reel will do the job. And if you want to target the big boys... the ones that seem to have shoulders, like striped bass, large catfish, or large northerns and muskies... then your reel better "have shoulders" as well.
How
The next thing to figure out is how you'll be using the reel. If you'll be doing a lot of deadsticking (stillfishing live bait when the rod will be unattended, such as when you're using a second rod to throw lures, etc.), you'll need a model that the antireverse can be shut off. It's also a plus (though not absolutely necessary) to have one with a bait clicker, an indicator light or some other type of signal that'll tell you that a fish is trying to pull your rig into the drink. If you intend to fish buzzbaits, spinnerbaits, or crankbaits, you'll want one with a fast retrieve. If you intend to fish Texas Rigs, Carolina Rigs, drop shotting rigs, surface plugs (like poppers or the venerable Arbogast Jitterbug), or trolling live bait set-ups like the Lindy Rig, you'll want one with a slower retrieve.
Features and Other Issues
There are other considerations. If you decide to fish for real streakers... like Chinook (king) salmon... that you just can't backreel against fast enough and have to depend on the reel's drag system, you may want to have a drivetrain drag. Most spincasters have drags that affect the sides of the spool. But some have drags that are located inside the drivetrain, just like a baitcaster. A lot of experienced anglers prefer drivetrain drags when hooking into these line peelers because the line doesn't twist when the reel is under drag. The spinnerhead, rather than the spool, rotates to pay out line under tension. Drivetrain drag spincasting reels, however, are not as versatile as standard spool drag models. Just like modern baitcasting reels, drivetrain drag pushbuttons don't allow the antireverse to be shut off, so these reels can't be used for deadsticking. Can't backreel with them, either, when bringing in fish that don't run like a Corvette but still take out drag.
Another thing to consider is how you want to retrieve. If you're left-handed, or if you're right-handed and simply prefer to keep the rod in your casting hand, you'll want a reel with an ambidextrous handle so you can switch the handle over to the other side of the reel.
Yet another consideration is the positioning of the reel. Standard spincasters ride on top of a casting rod, just like a baitcaster, and use a button to dispense line. But there are spincasting reels that hang below a spinning rod, and use a trigger-type line release. Many spincasting junkies like these reels for deadsticking, or prefer the smaller versions for microlight/ultralight usage because they balance like a spinning (or "bail") reel, and lighter-action rods do tend to be spinning rods. Some guys like the bigger trigger reels for flipping and pitching, again because of the balance issue.
Just One
You might say, "Sonny, I just want one rod and reel to do all my fishing." There are two ways to look at this:
1. Rod and reel combos are like golf clubs. You wouldn't even dream of attempting to play 18 holes with just a putter. There's also a place for woods, sand wedges, and other golf clubs (so I hear... I don't golf... golf is for people who can't fish... LOL). Rod and reel combos are the same way. You shouldn't chase after bluegills or stream trout with muskie equipment. You also shouldn't set your sights on flathead and blue catfish with your ultralight. There's a specific rod and reel combo for every type of fishing out there, and if we pack our rods like golf clubs, we can "play the whole course."
2. In our present economy, there are many of us who just plain can't afford an array of rods and reels to suit every situation. There are also those of us who are physically challenged, and are just incapable of toting 7,000 pounds of rods and reels (let alone all of the lures to use them with) wherever we go fishing. So, unlike golf, you can get by with just one or two rod and reel combos. It isn't the best way to fish, but it can be done. A medium-action composite (fiberglass/graphite) rod 5 1/2 to 7' long, with a medium-fast taper, a medium-action reel, and clear 12 lb.-test line will let you fish the widest variety of species. You can always use lighter leaders for smaller fish, or heavier leaders for the brutes, and adjust your drag accordingly. If you want my recommendation for a good, all-around rod that won't cost an arm and leg, you can't go wrong with a Shakespeare Ugly Stik. They're sensitive, yet tough as a bouncer in a heavy metal rock bar, and will probably outlast the reel you clamp to it.
The one rule to apply to any of these spincasting reel choices: get one of the better quality models. Just like with cars, electronics, kitchen appliances or anything else, you usually get what you pay for. You're not going to get Corvette performance from a Kia. Besides, why buy a Zebco 404 every other year when you can get a Zebco 33 and have it last ten, twenty, or more years? The more expensive reels are actually the real bargains in the long run. You don't have to buy top-shelf (there are pushbuttons that run up there), but buy at least the medium-priced reels, and stay out of the bargain basement. The modern Zebco 33 (or 33T trigger model) would do just fine: they're full-featured reels (ambidextrous, bait alarm, antireverse cut-out), hold 100 yards of 12 lb.-test, and will take a beating and still come out on top.
If money is tight, hit eBay and get an older reel in newer condition. That'd still be better than getting a cheap-o reel, then being let down by it and having to get another one. Used reels, I'd have to recommend the Zebco Legacy 1L... it's full featured (but not ambidextrous... just right-handed), and it's a champ. I've had one since '94 that's still going strong. The early '90s Zebco One Classic is another good choice. A good used trigger reel would be the Zebco Omega 154 or 164. Full-featured (except for no bait alarm) and tougher than Charles Bronson. And, of course, for light to medium duty, there's always the tried-and-true Shakespeare WondeReel 1800 or 1810. What great reels THOSE were! And eBay has them reasonably priced just about every day.
I hope I've helped a little. Whatever you choose, get the thing on a balanced rod and get out and use it!
Tight lines.